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Our wine making
book "101 Wine Kit
Tips" is designed to answer all your wine making
questions in one easy to find format.
For a Complete List Of Contents please go to FAQs
The following covers some interesting related issues received from fellow
home wine makers / readers.
Q- We've just received your
book, and find it very helpful. We were wondering if you have a copy
of the wine log you can email?
Thanks,
Mike Atkey
A - Certainly. Thanks for the idea... We now offer a
complimentary print out to all our readers. johnr@goamigo.net
Q- How long do I use cold
stabilization & should I prevent the wine from freezing? Thanks,
T.C. N.Y State
A - I have no personal experience with this procedure, but,
according to my guru, Ted Underhill who, in "Making better
wines" addresses the industry norms, "For full
stabilization the wine has to be cooled to close to its freezing
point for a period of several weeks, getting it down to the freezing
point of water, or even lower. The wine should be brought down to at
least 37.4F (3C) but no lower than 21F (-6C) for at least 2 weeks.
(Seems the basic fridge would fit the bill if you have an extra one
or a very understanding wife?)
Q - Could you tell me if I
can buy kits for making preservative free wine. Thank you. Chas
A - Assuming you wish to avoid the addition of preservatives
to your finished wine then simply do not add them.
The
down side is that that your wine could spoil during the period you
are trying to improve it with age. The sorbate & sulphite provided
helps prevent spoilage from bacterial growth & oxidation. If you
are worried about sulphites, I have found that kits use far less than
commercial wines. I would suggest you omit the preservatives from a %
of your wine, see how you make out, rather than lose a whole batch.
If
you have had a reaction from some commercial wine, I believe it is
due to other additives such as coloring or taste enhancers. It was
such reaction that prompted me to make my own wine some years ago.
Q - Is there an advantage
to using a liquid yeast? (This is the authors addition to Tip #21
on page 19 & can be e-mailed to you in a format that will fit on
the book page).
A - If you are starting with a high end kit and intend to follow the
tips outlined in TIP #8, then substituting the yeast with a liquid
type is well worth considering as it will generally give you a
"cleaner" tasting wine, plus have the advantage of
selecting a specific "strain" as opposed to the generic
variety issued with most kits. I have seen some "specific"
dry yeasts offered, which is an improvement, but still recommend a
liquid variety for best results. You need to start them approx one
day ahead of preparing your juice (time depends on the age of yeast).
Your supplier should be able to provide you with styles available, or
I would be happy to provide a contact.
Q - I doubt you've been
asked this before - is Aseptox at all toxic? I'm asking because I
forgot about the 4 litres of Aseptox solution in my secondary carboy
when I racked from my primary. It dawned on me when I ran out of room
in the secondary with plenty of wine left in the primary. Also, if it
isn't toxic, will affect the taste much? I know it will be diluted,
but would it be worth the bother to continue with this kit? It is a
Selection Luna Rossa and I was looking forward to the finished
product. The Aseptox solution was 4 teaspoons/litre if that makes any
difference. Thanks. Bedford, NS
A - Well, it will certainly dilute your wine, but I'd say not
enough to pitch it. Aseptox is a product that when used to sterilize,
can be safely emptied without rinsing. However.....I do not know the
ramifications of adding so much to a batch & have referred your
question to the distributor. Until you hear further I would not
discard the wine. Checking with the distributor we received the
following information: "Aseptox is a chemical consisting of
super-concentrated oxygen molecules, which kill bacteria instantly on
contact. It is colorless, odorless and tasteless, so other than
seriously diluting his wine, it probably would not have any other
noticeable effect. HOWEVER, I would not be comfortable advising the
customer to go ahead and drink the wine. We only guarantee our
products if they are made as per our instructions, and even though
the chances of ill effects may be slim, we as a company would not
advise the customer to continue with the wine". Peter Mills
Account Manager Atlantic Canada for Winexpert BC
Q - My wife and myself are
currently in the process of running our first wine kit (Australian
Cabernet Sauvignon). The kit was a gift from friends so all the
contents were chosen by them, in the kit was a bubble cap for the
secondary fermenter and a vacuum pump unit, our friend's have told us
the vacuum pump unit is the preferred method of managing the carbon dioxide,
their advise is to pull a vacuum on the pump as often as you have
time until the carboy holds it, then complete the remaining
fermenting time (total of ten days for second racking) My question
is, does this more aggressive method of extracting the carbon dioxide
rather than the bubble cap create a better Wine? Thanks in
advance! B & J Wilkinson North Western Alberta Canada
A -If I read you correctly, I gather you are referring to the
creation of a vacuum in your secondary carboy. Yeast needs air so I
cannot see why one would try to remove it. When the wine is finished,
then air becomes a problem & that's where the vacuum unit would
be an asset. (also recommended IF you decide to filter) See related
TIP's # 13, 33, 34, & 43.
Would be interested in which part of the world you are vintnering
& good luck with your first kit. Patience is one of the most
important ingredients. How long you can age it depends on the initial
quality of kit (Brand) & techniques used.
Q - I just finished reading
your 101 Wine kit tips - thanks for the practical advise.
I've read that by lowering the temperature of the must to around 60F
once fermentation has started you can retain more of the fruity
aromas of the kit, and minimize ester production in the yeast, giving
a cleaner, fruiter wine. Can you provide me suggestions on which
yeast (both dry and liquid) are the best for using in wine kits (both
reds, whites and sweet)?
The other thing I read was that by extending the winemaking
timeframe, the amount and types of finings can be substantially
reduced. Have you done any testing to see what the minimal amount of
fining agents can be used? If so can you provide me with a practical
guideline for reduced fining agents. This was given with a suggested
phase of 5-20-40-90 day schedule as opposed to the standard 7-21-28.
I would be very appreciative of any guidance you can provide. Tim
Baube Bloomington, MN
A- I have found that lower temperatures can account for the
benefits you describe although kit manufacturers warn of too low a temp
that could result in a very fizzy wine or even stuck fermentation. I
still recommend the range given in TIP #26 63-68F.
For yeast suggestions you can find a comprehensive list at
www.homebrewheaven.com covering dry & liquid. They can even ship
if you have a local supply problem.
Time frame definitely makes a difference with the higher quality kits
TIP #8.
With extended ageing it is quite likely the wine will clear
satisfactorily on its own. HOWEVER, you could bottle and discover
cloudy wine later due to unsettled protein. This can be verified by
taking a sample of finished clear wine, placing it over night in the
fridge to check for any deposit. If there is, then you should fine
it. I always use the packages supplied as they are minimal amounts.
To establish a possible lower amount then you have to take small
samples adding smaller relative amounts to determine the least
that will be effective in your particular wine. I do not believe
there is a more scientific method. I witnessed this process in a French
winery and they even had to try different finings to see which had
the right reaction and then go through the minimum amount process!
With kits we have the luxury of a determined fining for the juice
makeup (Chemistry out of my league)
Q Thanks so much for the
"101 Wine Tips" book. It promises to be a great help in my
wine making!
I'd like to make a "buttery" Chardonnay. I purchased the
best kit that I could , Brew Kings Selection Estate Series B.C.
Okanagan Chardonnay kit. I asked the dealer about making it
"buttery", and he sold me a Malolactic Fermentation kit, and
said "just add it 7-10 days after starting initial
fermentation". Then I read in Winemaker Magazine to "never,
ever" use maloactic with kits. What are your thoughts on
starting ML with a kit? Mark Sanford, Union City. CA USA
A - The article you read in the Winemaker mag was probably the
one by Ted Vandergrift, the guru at Brewking, the makers of
Selection. It has always been my understanding that malolactic
fermentation was introduced in order to reduce acidity or smooth out
a harsh wine. To me, starting from kits avoided this problem often
wanting to introduce an opposite effect if anything!
I know someone who has used this technique in kits and has gone on to
win at wine fairs? I think his success (above the juice chosen) has
been more to do with cooler fermentation, proper filtering techniques
etc.
The "buttery" taste comes from the "fullness" of
the wine so I cannot see how malolactic induction could help.
Chardonnay is one of the few grapes that you can ferment for a longer
period in the initial stage to pick up more flavour without the
harshness. You have to be careful to avoid oxidation. See my tips on
closed & cool fermentation TIPs 23 & 26.
I just opened a bottle of Selection Limited Edition 2003 that used
these methods & it has a definate "buttery" taste.....
Cheers, John
Follow up: An article in the Feb/Mar 2004 Winemaker mag indicates
that malolactic fermentation can develop the buttery taste in a wine
BUT should NEVER be used in wine KITS where it will produce a FLAT
wine!
Q - It is obvious that you
have spent many hours making wine and putting your findings into
probably the most practical book I have ever read. My question is how
can I determine how long to age a particular kit either in the carboy
or the bottle? B.H. San Diego, California.
A - Wow! An excellent question but very difficult to answer
because it is all relative to the quality/complexity of the juice in
question. As a guide I think the best way to gauge it is to sample
the wine a month after it has finished fermentation and if it is
mellow/smooth/ drinkable then it probably will not benefit from
extended ageing. If on the other hand it appears somewhat sharp then
leave it in the carboy until smooth. Either way, it is good to hold
on to any wine after bottling for a month or so between tasting to
check improvement. If you suddenly feel it has started to diminish in
quality, then make it the wine of the week (month). Tip # 85 suggests
how you might improve a less complex juice. Cheers.
Q - Thanks so much for your
great book "101 Wine Kit Tips". I have read and re-read it
several times picking up new insight each time.
I have a ? related to Tip #33. In the 2nd portion of the tip which
eliminates lifting the carboy, you mention the use of a small
aquarium pump....Any recommendations on what size pump strong enough
for a 5 gal carboy?
Thanks again for the very informative book and thanks in advance for
your help with this ?
J.M.W. Huntersville, N.C.
A - I have used pumps as low 2.5 p.s.i. 4 p.s.i. is safe and
certainly faster. (The vacuum pump in the 3rd section is the
preferred option to avoid introducing undesirable air) I trust this
answers your ? Many thanks for your kind words.
Q - Why do you recommend
that closed fermentation (Tip #23) NOT be used with juices that start
with a SG of >1.100? By the way, thanks for a great book. B.P. Anchorage, Alaska.
A - Good question. By reducing the amount of water to leave
sufficient headroom for initial fermentation, we increase the sugar
level considerably. In most kit juices that start at approx 1.08 this
reduced mix has been OK. With higher levels it could inhibit
fermentation. An option would be to start with about about a 21 litre
mix in a pail & rack to carboy at an earlier stage or as soon as
the head dies down & then carry on as regular closed fermentation
tip.
Q - Is it OK to store wine
in plastic 4 liter milk containers up to a year or more? Alex B.
California
A - I have had bad experience storing wine in plastic
containers for any length of time. e.g. the 4 litre water containers
were OK for a few weeks then the wine started to oxidize. It is the
same with plastic carboys. They are fine for the fermentation cycle,
and I often use them for ease of handling, BUT NEVER use them to age
wine.
Q - I have one of those
10"round filter plate units that you have to remove six bolts
and wing nuts every time you need to change the filter pads. Is there
something available like the old tennis racket clamps for example
that would save me fiddling around with these tiny wing nuts each
time I change the pads? L.S Dallas, Texas
A - Yes! After similar frustration and experimentation I came
up with a clamp that simply requires you to slack off 3 larger wing
nuts and then slide out the plates to change the pads. For $2.00 I
will send you full details on how to construct this labor saving
device.
Q - I have occasionally
misplaced the additive packages that come with the wine kits. Rather
than have to wait until I visit my local store, could you let me know
what I need "on hand" and what quantities I should use.
Hopefully I'm not the only one who runs into this and other readers
would appreciate this information? R.V. Illinois, U.S.A.
A - Excellent idea and not expensive to have the ingredients
on hand. The different brands have their own coding, often without a
description of contents. The following is a general guide and can
apply to any juice that you may have purchased.
The first Pkg is generally Bentonite, put in at the start with the
yeast. You need about 1 tablespoon for 23 litres. When fermentation
is complete you need to stabilize the wine and prevent oxidation.
There are many variations but the following formula will do the
trick. ADD 2 Teaspoons of Potassium Sorbate and 1/2 teaspoon of
Potassium Metabisulphite. At the same time you can add the finings or
clearing agent that is harder to substitute if the contents are not
specified. There is not one definite solution to all juices contrary
to wide opinion. However, as a general guide, use Isinglass for white
wine and Gelatin for red. Mixing/dosage details will be on the
pkt/container. Incidentally, finings and home filtering does strip
your wine to a small degree so it is wise not to overdo the process.
Q -I am off to a dinner
party and wish to take along a bottle of my wine "shrink
wrapped". Do you have an easy way to handle this?
A -Yes. Place a shrink over the neck of the bottle, Push the
bottle end against the side of your sink and pour boiling water over
the capsule. Instant success!
Q - Do you have a tip on
opening wine kits. Mine always go over the floor. I put the box on
the table, pail on the floor and then I pry open the plastic lid to
the wine juice with a knife somehow it goes all over the floor. What
a mess help. (2) I lose a lot of wine transferring and also
filtering. I have a mini jet filter and when I filter more comes out
the reservoir hose than the output. Do you know why? C.M. Concordia
A - TIP #10 suggests an easier way to remove the cap over a
knife. As for the drastic spillage I assume the cap removable
difficulty is the main culprit. Try clasping the bag tight under the
cap before removing it..this should control/prevent spillage. See TIP
#12 "Emptying Juice Bags". See TIPS #25,45 & 60 for
ideas to avoid losing wine during racking. I get a full 30x750ml
yeild from 23 litres of juice using these tips. The Mini Jet has some
leakage but it should be minimal and if diverted to a container via
the spout provided you would not actually "lose" any wine.
TIP #51 will enable you to check leakage problems BEFORE filtering
the wine. See also TIP #52 "Filter Leakage". Try thoroughly
wetting the pads before inserting them between the plates.
Q - In your book (TIP #43)
you say that stirring to get rid of the gas is "expedient"
and you don't have to do it if you are going to age it in bulk for a
few months. This is confusing. "Expedient" to me usually means
usefull or called for. In this context it seems to mean unnecessary.
I'd like to leave this step out, could you rephrase your tip or
clarify this for me? S.H.W
A - Many thanks for pointing this out...I used the wrong
word! Should read..."This is strictly for speed.
(In school I excelled in science and math but my English ..she not so
good.
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("Brew Tips").
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